Sarengrad Croatia to Novi Sad South Serbia - 83 km 51miles
12 October, 2023
Awaking in the side of The Donau is a lovely experience. Gorgeous light just before sunrise! These autumn days are absolutely stunning, crystal clear air and not a puff of wind at 0645.
Paul up and at it for almost 45 mins before (up til midnight!!) me, meant he was champing at the bit to go before 8am.... I needed another 45mins before departure. Our hosts Dinka and Romano are fine people and they wished to bid each of us farewell as we departed.
With the bridge to cross the river and border to Serbia we would definitely enter Serbia separately. Paul had confidence I'd catch him up, but I doubted it as I'm never at my strongest early in the morning, and he took the busy road all the way to Novi Sad, whilst I took the official route on the flood defense dyke. Paul missed it as the waymarking is now not just poor, but none existent in the case of this turn.... I could see it on my Garmin, but still missed the turn while in self preservation mode on that very busy road. So, we both missed, but I pedalled back to join the dyke route as the road was just too busy and bumping along the gravel shoulder constantly just not much fun ..... even at a 15km distance penalty!!
Whilst having a coffee and cake in Futog before Novi Sad my bicycle caught the eye of a fellow Canuck! This young fellow named Sasha was originally from Bosnia and Herzegovina until the age of 13years. That year the guns started in his home town and, as ethnic Serbs, his parents decided it was best to leave, and try to settle in Canada. After 18 months in Novi Sad they got their immigration documents from Ottawa, and they settled near Niagara Falls that had a burgeoning Serb population at the time. Since his family has resettled in Vancouver BC. He was in Futog to visit his wife's family. Many years ago she was visiting her Aunt in Vancouver, it was then they met and fell in love... 'Birds of a feather' eh, and the rest is history! He told me that a fellow countryman of his, Nicola Tesla has a statue commemorating him in Niagara Falls because apparently, his first major electrical installation back in the 'turn of the century' was the hydro-electric project on Niagara Falls!!
#LearnSomethingNewEveryDay✊🤔🤙
I still had 20miles to do, so after a flying visit to the hilltop fortress in Novi Sad I headed south on some of the craziest roads yet!! In fact, the finally 6km of the day's journey was nomonated as the worst stretch of the entire 4600 km EuroVelo Route! A never ending 4km winding uphill, busy, truck ridden, shoulder-less two lane speedway. At one point, I saw another cyclist approaching from behind.... it wasn't Paul, so I kept on cycling. Just as the cyclist reached me I was forced to lay on the anchors to avoid being squahed like a gnat..... I blurted out, "These SOB's don't give a sh*t about us", and I turned around to be greeted by young Nick and his Dad Adrian! After a quick greeting Adrian was off and 'took no prisoners'.... never saw him til the top. Nick and I chatted a moment then got pedalling for the remaining 3km to the top. Adrian was there and we had a photo call next to the most incredibly beautiful church in Serbia. Our routes overlapped momentarily and we pedalled downhill.... fast to meet Paul.
Adrian gave Paul some knee bandages, we had a photo and off they rode to meet Jane in the Support Vehicle! Meanwhile, Paul found the Campsite closed, had a beer with a hospitable local, and was identified as 'in distress' by our 'would be' land lady for the night!
Mira turned out to be an 'Angel in Disguise'! She saw Paul looking forlorn at the roadside, made inquiries as to his story, and within minutes she decided to offer us her rear garden as our campsite home for the night! What kindness and generosity we have experienced in the former Yugoslav countries! She gave us salad to acompany the now familiar Slivaviç (Plum Brandy aka Raki) we showered and made a cornucopic omelette for dinner accompanied by the local, and most friendly, yet weary 'feral' cats..... 'Birds of a feather' again!!
Doug&Paul
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